James A. Michener, in his book, Texas, best described the Ellis County Courthouse as "A fairy tale palace.replete with battlements and turrets and spires.and miniature castles high in the air.one of the finest buildings in Texas." It is indeed a jewel of a building that has been designated as number eight on the list of outstanding architectural achievements in Texas.As you begin your Courthouse tour, start on the Southwest side with the bronze statue of Richard Ellis, by international and Smithsonian registered sculptor, A. Piccirillo. Knowing the Ellis County history, which began over 150 years ago, will help you appreciate its Courthouse. The County was named after Virginia born Ellis, President of the defiant 1836 Constitutional Congress, which declared Texas independence from Mexico. The voters, who were told by the state legislators to call it Waxahachie-a Tejas Native American word for "buffalo creek", decided the location of the County Seat. Sixty-two acres boarding the Waxahachie Creek, donated by one of the earliest settlers, Emory W. Rogers, became the site for the Courthouse.

Courthouse History 

Texas has more Courthouses (225) than any other state-86 are on the National Register and 78 are Texas Historic Landmarks. Courthouses have always been a symbol of self-government and civic pride. Collectively, the courthouses were viewed as a sign of progress. They serve as the heart of the community and the hub of social activity. The Ellis County Courthouse was no exception to the rule.This is the fourth courthouse to stand on this site, starting with an 1850 log cabin for $59, then in 1885 a wooden frame structure for $1999, to a two-story yellow limestone building for $40,000, and finally, the most recently restored Courthouse was accepted in 1897 for approximately $130,000 plus the supervising architect's fee.

Life In Prosperous 1890 Ellis County

It is easy to understand the need for this larger (and more magnificent) Courthouse when one realizes that the County population had grown by 50% between 1880 and 1890. Despite the national economic crash in 1893, local paper of 1894, "The Enterprise"," reported that the County was said to be in the heart of the wealthiest and most productive part of the state. Because of its black loamy prairie soil, it was perfect for all kinds of grains, cotton and corn. It was considered the garden spot of the South. The article continued by touting that Waxahachie was the judicial meat of Ellis County and a city of intelligence and wealth. Land was selling for $15 to $20 an acre and a quart of homemade chili was 25 cents. The City had two railway lines, three national banks, and a land mortgage bank. Farmers were getting high prices for their seeds and crops because of four local cotton gins, two flouring mills, and one of the most prosperous cotton oil mills of the day. Waxahachie received more cotton direct from producers than any other city in the world.

Construction of the Courthouse

Not to be outdone by their neighboring counties, the Ellis County Commissioners set about to build their new Courthouse on a grand scale. The timing was right since the 1881 Texas State Legislature had authorized bonds for building new Courthouses. Even today, controversy abounds about the actual construction of what would become one of the most artistic and beautiful public buildings in the South. With the boom in Courthouse building, sales/contractor Otto Kroeger came to Waxahachie to sell a stock courthouse plan designed by noted architect James Riley Gordon. Gordon apprenticed under W. C. Dodson, architect of the Hillsboro Courthouse. Gordon was known for his Richardsonian Romanesque style, and he would be credited with over 60 courthouses nationwide, including 16 in Texas. Gordon as selected to represent Texas at the World's Columbian Exposition in 1893. This Exposition set the tone for buildings in America for years to come-which was classical design based on monumental renaissance architecture. This high honor probably accounted for the selection of his plans, without any competitive bids.A savvy Kroeger negotiated a contract with county officials and demolished the old courthouse before a second set of County Commissioners took office. Only one Commissioner, Finley, retained his office. Some, today, believe that the radical change in the Commissioners Court was due to the extravagance of the Courthouse contract. But national politics probably played more of a role. There was no mention of the Courthouse construction in the general election and the local economy was prosperous, thus giving credence to the political climate as being the reason for the Court's change in composition. In 1895, the new Court stopped construction and hired the Fort Worth firm of Messer, Sanguinet and Messer to be the "on-site architect" and supervisor of Kroeger. They were to review the plans, make suggestions and hire an on-site superintendent if necessary. Sanguinet did all of the above and hired R. Parry as superintendent. The local citizens knew Marshall Sanguinet since he had created the bank building directly North of the Courthouse. Kroeger agreed to the concessions and reimbursed the County for salvaged materials from the razing of the third Courthouse.As you walk around the building, keep in mind that 50 to 70 men worked on the construction of this Courthouse at a monthly payroll of $5,000. This massive and stately edifice (23,739 square feet) stands nine stories tall, with a working clock tower featuring an 800-pound bell. Towers were frequently featured in the Richardsonian Romanesque (also known as Romanesque Revival and Renaissance Revival) design. The Courthouse sits on a three foot thick twisted steel and concrete foundation that supports 12 inch steel beams-giving it a heaviness of style-a characteristic of the design of H. H. Richardson, know as "the architects architect." In 1885, five of his buildings were ranked in the top ten buildings in America. The first on the list was Richardson's Trinity Church in Boston (1877). Not many architects have been credited with their own national style.This type of architecture always utilized brick or stone. Gordon combined both, by contrasting textures and colors of masonry, including a gray granite base, rose pink granite walls, Burnett County limestone, and Pecos Red sandstone. The sandstone may have been a replacement for granite as was the slate replacing the roof tile as a cost cutting measure by the ever price-conscious Sanguinet. In addition, turrets, some with curved glass, massed short robust columns, deep set windows, semi-circular arches, cavernous recessed door openings, and unusual sculptured shapes made this building the epitome of this revival style, a showplace for its time and today. Other elements set this structure apart from its contemporaries-such as the 21 exquisitely carved stone faces that decorate the porches, gleaming copper gutters and downspouts and four soaring bronze eagles.The stone sculptures are particularly important because Sanguinet sub-contracted the stonework to the Dallas firm of German stonemason Theodore Beilharz. The ascetic carving of the stone ornamentation is attributed to Harry Herley, and sets the Ellis County Courthouse apart from any building in Texas. Fables surround stonemason Herley and Mable Frame, a daughter of a local boarding house owner. Some believe their unrequited love became the subject matter for the many faces that decorate the facade. However architectural history illustrates that the carving design and subject matter is commonly found on European Romanesque buildings, the architectural parent of this revival design.It was no wonder that in the invitation for the laying of the cornerstone, it was proposed to make that day "the grandest day in the history of the County" and that every citizen should take an interest in this "temple of justice." Since all of the marble floor tiled entrances face the points of the compass, go to the North side main entrance (the most heavily carved of all entrances) of the Courthouse. There you will find what has been called locally the "dueling cornerstones." As you read the stones, imagine that you can hear, on July 4, 1895, Judge J. C. Smith proclaim, "A temple that will for ages stand out in golden letters on the history's page of Ellis County as a milestone on the eminent highway tread by our generation." The Commissioners Court ordered the Masonic stone, and Kroeger-showing that they had resolved the controversy and eliminated the hard feelings-purchased the other stone. Both old and new commissioners' names appear in a standoff in perpetuity. Listed in the National Register of Historic Places, our Courthouse is also recorded as a Texas historic landmark. As the centerpiece of the Nationally Registered Ellis County Courthouse District, there are an additional 42 contributing members (buildings) of the District around the business square. Before you enter the Courthouse through the handicapped entrance, please read the official state marker.

Courthouse Interior

As you enter the basement of the building you will notice some evidence of its two million bricks, which have been plastered over. Please keep in mind that the contract called for heating, lighting and plumbing. When it was turned over to the County, there was to be nothing to do but "raise the steam and press the button." This building was "state of the art" for the nineteenth century. The ventilation system was unique in that it operated by using central staircase as an air shaft that allowed air to circulate from the windows through the transoms in the surrounding offices and courtrooms of the building and out through the "wind chimney" at the top of the stairs. In addition, the 20" thick brick and plaster walls, as well as the nineteen and one-half foot high ceilings, allowed the occupants to stay cool in the Texas summers.All of the updated mechanical systems have been placed under the porches or crawl spaces to be out-of-sight and make the building appear as it did in 1897. The electrical, plumbing, and 21st Century services are hidden in the floors, walls and ceilings. Some of the interesting artifacts in this basement area are: the cornerstone from the third Courthouse, the coal shoot, and several old graphic painted signs. Architectural features include the converted two-story vault (now a public restroom), arched ceilings and a new elevator (offices were gutted to make room for it and the fire stairs). The basement houses the Ellis County Visitors Center, break room, Indigent Health Office, and Constable Offices. To continue the tour, take the elevator to the third floor.Courthouse Third FloorPass through the oak wooden doors to enter the balcony of the courtroom. This incredible area epitomizes what. Richardsonian Romanesque is all about. It is referred to as "dynamism of interior space." The curvature of the balcony (now capable of holding 275 people) may not be the original design, but was approximated by visiting other courtrooms of the same vintage. Added glass and handrails are needed today to meet the safety building codes. The paint colors in the hall, as well as in the basement, are of a more neutral pallet. You will also see that some of the woodwork is painted, which may have been done to save money. The paint, wooden blinds and accessories were all researched for historical accuracy. The lights are reproductions based on the styles of the period. The hall plaster arches, moldings and wood trim are essentially original to the building. As you look into the rooms, notice that the balconies were not only beautiful, but were functional. They allowed occupants to get a breath of fresh air and to take in the view of the city. They also were used to make public announcements-the last such proclamation is said to be that of the deaths of Bonnie and Clyde.

Courthouse Second Floor

As you walk down the stairs to the second floor, admire the beautiful iron grillwork, cast iron staircase and textured plaster wainscoting. On the second floor, you will notice a color shift to a more elaborate color pallet. The floors are marble and the office floors are linoleum, a predecessor to wood floors in commercial buildings. This was an interesting characteristic of the period. This floor houses the Treasurer's Office, which features the original Clerk's Cage, made of carved oak and metal. The meeting room in the old vault is an obvious reuse of the space than it was in the original building.Proceed into the County and Commissioners' Courtroom. There are no records as to how it originally appeared, but there are clues in the building itself-such as the judge's bench, column bases, walls and windows. The judge's bench is original, except for the reproduced top that had been destroyed or lost. In 1915, the second story of the courtroom was floored over for additional office space. Of additional interest are the portraits of many of the former judges that presided in this courtroom. Most of the furniture throughout the Courthouse, and this Courtroom, is original, including the railing, judge's bench, backdrop and newel posts. For its time, the craftsmanship is unequaled. The furniture was designed and produced by Sanguinet's firm. The furniture hardware is particularly beautiful and should be noted, as is the copper plated hardware throughout the Courthouse.

Courthouse First Floor

As you walk down to the first floor, notice the well-designed crown molding, as well as the beautiful egg and dart arched molding trim. The oak and acorn plaster molding has been painted to look as if it were carved wood. This beautiful plasterwork helps to hide and decorate the massive reinforced concrete and steel construction that comprises the ceilings.This floor contains the Justice of Peace Offices and Court, County Judge Administrative Offices and his Administrative Assistant's Office. This office was once the County Sheriff's Office and bears a bullet hole-a sign of a more violent time that dates to 1920. At that time, a prisoner's girlfriend secretly gave him a pistol when he was in custody. A shooting ensued that resulted in the death of the prisoner, and a deputy was wounded during the ruckus.The J P Courtroom has metal pre-cast Corinthian columns, pine floors, a secure hidden stairwell for the prisoners, and the judge's carved backdrop. The wood of the Courthouse is of particular importance-it is old growth longleaf southern yellow pine. This beautiful hard wood is no longer available because it came from old growth forests. The replacement lumber for the restoration effort was secured from other old buildings of the period. As you can see, every office contained a vault. This vault area has also been converted to meeting rooms. Of particular interest are the doors to the vault and the window locking metal shutters to make the vault secure at night.

Restoration

In 1998, during his re-election, then Governor G. W. Bush announced his intent to restore many of the historic Texas Courthouses. With $50 million to start the program, on May 4, 2000, there were 19 Texas Counties, including Ellis, that were able to receive matching grants. The Texas Historical Commission was responsible for developing and administrating this project. Ellis County received the third largest share of these monies.The Courthouse restoration was desperately needed because of dangerous deterioration and inadequate systems and ADA compliance for the new millennium. The roof was replaced and waterproofed in 1999. All of the employees moved out of the building in December of 1999. Demolition, lead paint abatement, and elimination of all non-historic improvements took four months. Many window frames had to be replaced because of water and termite damage. All of the exterior stonework was tuck-pointed using a historically correct mortar mix. Making plaster molds and recasting of broken and missing pieces of columns, cornices and decorative sculpture was time consuming and expensive.Restoration involves many hours of research for historical data, materials, architects, builders, artisans and craftsmen. The process involves demolition of inappropriate changes, abatement of environmental hazards, repair of remaining correct structural and decorative elements, waterproofing creative installation of mechanical and communication systems, and fireproofing and compliance with ADA codes. It is much more difficult and expensive than new construction, but the end product is one that is irreplaceable.On January 3, 2000, Judge Cornelius stated, "We have a duty to maintain part of our heritage here and remember where we came from." This stewardship has resulted in a fine restoration whose costs, including refurbishing furniture, landscaping, and 21st Century modernization will be approximately $10 to $12 million. This returns the Courthouse to its former glory as a working government facility that will also educate visitors, about the architectural style, and the culture and values this bygone era.The restoration is now an integral part of the history of the Ellis County Courthouse. As you revisit this 1897 outstanding architectural specimen, know that it reflects the spirit and love of the citizens of Texas and Ellis County for their history and faith in our American system of government.

Restoration Credits

Although there are many people that make the restoration a success, there are certain people that should be identified for their unique contributions. Some of the name of individuals and organizations are as follows:

ARCHITEXAS

Larry Isirk-Principal in Charge

Craig Melde-Principal

Gary Scotnicki-Principal

David Singer-Preservation Specialist

Devlin Shelton-Preservation Specialist

GENERAL CONTRACTOR

Thos. S. Byrne, Ltd.

CONSULTANTS

Steve Gumm-O'Dea, Lynch, Abbitista Engineers

Steve Lucy, Jaster, Quintanilla and Associates

Craig Haney, IntroSpec

Chris Jordan, Electro Acoustics and Video Texas Historical Commission (THC)

Sharon Fleming, THC Architect

Stan Graves, Director of Architecture

Lawrence Oaks, Executive Director, THC

Ellis County Citizens

County Judge Al Cornelius; County Commissioners Ron Brown, Jerry Holland, Hallie Jo Robinson, Jackie Miller, Sr., Charles Waller; Jo Bhore, State Representative Jim Pitts; and Fred Weldon.

This brochure is provided by
Ellis County Historic Commission and
Historic Waxahachie Inc.